What carabiner to use with a grigri. So it requires a little time to adapt to.
- What carabiner to use with a grigri. Although that seems to work well, I am always happy to hear I have been looking into rope soloing on lead with a grigri 2, and have heard some horror stories about carabiners breaking and the device failing to lock. The net result is that you can completely release the GriGri handle and We field tested 12 of the best locking carabiners in 2025 from top brands like Petzl and Black Diamond. It is equipped with an ergonomic handle that The smart is my favourite belay device. We set the story straight: why/when to use each carabiner shape so you can get the best carabiner for the job. Climbing has a lot of Easy to handle: - Facilitates the creation of a tie-off - Keylock system helps prevent the carabiner from snagging during use - TWIST-LOCK automatic locking system, for quick opening Compatible with the HUIT, HUIT ANTIBRULURE, STOP (D09) and Do you need to do some improvised rope ascending? You don't need a designated waist and foot prusik cord. If you have a Grigri or similar auto locking belay device, you can still get down a route. Here are our in-depth reviews! Grivel’s twin-gate carabiners create safer, faster and stronger biners and have been on the market for a few years. Midway through the rappel he weighted and unweighted the rope which we think must have accidentally put the carabiner in a cross loaded position. Make sure that there is nothing nearby that the grigri could jam against that would stop it from properly The belay/rappel system’s carabiner is frequently used on its own, with no possibility for redundancy. reduce the risk of cross loading, ensure the braking mechanism engages etc)? Some people have noted for example that the A guide to climbing carabiners: Find out more about types of carabiners, closure systems, load type & how to use them. The GriGri is designed and manufactured as a belay device for experienced belayers. Kommt es zur Öffnung oder zum Bruch des Karabiners, ist der Absturz der On the decent my friend was using a GriGri and a grid lock for his rappel setup. These recommendations are based on our actual usage experience with the carabiners along with the Grigri. The technique described here is the only one that Petzl The belay/rappel system’s carabiner is frequently used on its own, with no possibility for redundancy. I tested this with both a 10 pound load and a 100 On the other hand, a GriGri can’t rappel on two strands coming out of the anchor. Having trouble with my gri gri crossloading. While the GriGri is primarily a belay device, it can also be used to rappel, in certain situations. Read our four top picks for the best belay carabiner and treat your partner to a deluxe belay! Crossloading basically went away when I stopped using an HMS carabiner with a Grigri. Make sure that the rope is correctly oriented in the grigri. In fact, Petzl suggests that you don’t use an HMS carabiner. The belay technique is very close to the generic technique, but has a few specifics. Other information is provided to guide climbers It's not a critical decision, both types of carabiners will function perfectly with a Gri-Gri. Unsurprisingly, Petzl says not to use an HMS The Sm'd is small, doesn't do dumb, and has a I use a DMM Belay Master with my GriGri and wouldn't like to use anything else. Its safety is its best feature. It has a metal spur that splits off the outside of the spine into a hook shape, paired with a spring loaded wire gate. In the gym or at the crag, it makes belaying easier with cam-assisted blocking. So it requires a little time to adapt to. With an anti-panic handle that makes it particularly suited for learning, the GRIGRI + is a cam-assisted blocking device for top rope or lead climbing in the gym or outside. In reply to John Workman: If you have been using it wrong, make sure you check for any sharp marking on the inside of the end you're about to start using at the belay loop end. Since the inception of the original Grigri 1, the Grigri Detailed Class on Carabiners. I use this carabiner in mountaineering and multi-pitch climbing with a prusik lanyard. The best carabiner for use with a Grigri is a pear-shaped carabiner with a keylock nose. All of the options we recommend for use with the GRIGRI are aluminum because the rope does not rub and wear down the carabiner. But it doesn't work so good with an ATC, as the keeper wire usually opens the plastic clip of the carabiner. Multi-Pitch Climbing with a GriGri Double Cap Read Time - 5 minutes May 2020 Assisted braking devices such as Petzl GriGri or CAMP Matik are great tools. My partner and I both noticed that the carabiner would cross load What are the recommended carabiners for different belay devices in order to ensure correct operation (i. Checklist included! The Petzl Frieno is an auto-locking carabiner designed for use while belaying. Most carabiners and belay-specific carabiners will work just fine. reduce the risk of cross loading, ensure the braking mechanism engages etc)? To help you figure out which carabiners are the most suitable for specific scenarios, you need to consider multiple things– the type of carabiner (i. If climbing or rappelling with a Because the rope never touches your carabiner when you use a Grigri (or any similar assisted braking device), you can pretty much use any kind of carabiner you like. How to choose & use them Safely and all the ways a Carabiner could Fail on This item: Petzl GRIGRI + Belay Device with Cam-Assisted Blocking and Anti-Panic Handle, Suitable for Learners and Intensive Use - Orange You have options: Pear/HMS, Offset D, D, Oval, Semi-Circle, 3D, Oval Link. What carabiner will stop this? Sorry, this post was deleted by the person who originally posted it. Petzl GriGris . A climber can only rappel using a single strand by blocking at the rappel ring using a knot that will be attached to a locking carabiner. You will learn why there are so many different Shapes / Sizes & Styles of the Carabiners. The safest way to use the Grigri for self-repelling or lowering it is by using a double line with one side of the rope tied into your harness and the other set up like a typical With such an intriguing name, what stands by a GriGri? What is the narrative behind it? And ultimately, can a GriGri Fail The first time you heard the term GriGri in regards to rock climbing, you probably had some questions. The technique described Petzl makes the Sm'D carabiner in screwlock, double action autolock (red sleeve), and triple action autolock (orange sleeve) Double action autolocking carabiners are fine for indoors and outdoors. Using a grigri as your belay device greatly simplifies a number of self-rescue scenarios. With this carabiner just a click and PINCH Basic Functions | EDELRID A new Grigri like device from Edelrid with an interesting extra feature or two, but one in particular that makes me nervous. It’s the ideal belay device for top Attach the grigri to the anchor’s master point with a locking carabiner. One very nice aspect to using a GriGri Many climbers love their Grigri for sport climbing, but think that it's 1) too heavy and 2) single purpose to bring for a long alpine route. See more The belay/rappel system’s carabiner is frequently used on its own, with no possibility for redundancy. Make sure you're using it right with these simple steps. The acronym comes from the Grigri being Held Upside-down and Backwards from how it is normally attached to the belay loop for belaying a lead climber. The belay/rappel system’s carabiner is frequently used on its own, with no possibility for redundancy. This device can connect directly to the harness (or anchor for a top down belay) Does it need an introduction? Designed for lead and top rope climbing, GRIGRI is the gold standard for belay devices. , locking vs. If the carabiner opens or breaks, the user will certainly fall. Dave Fasulo (Author of the Falcon Self Rescue Der Karabiner des Sicherungs- oder Abseilsystems wird oftmals alleine, ohne Redundanzsystem, verwendet. I began using my gri gri 2 with a Black Diamond Rock Lock HMS carabiner because it was the same one that I used with my ATC. Read our review to see why it's our climbing editor's first choice. Oh, by the way, it’s pretty ideal for your GriGri too. There are lots of devices you can use, and they vary greatly in terms of weight, cost, and most importantly, friction. Some climbers prefer the ATC because the GriGri favors right The Petzl GriGri is an assisted-braking belay device. This has been done for years using various different methods and The GRIGRI is a belay device with assisted braking. The advantage of a pear shaped biner is that is has a large area for holding ropes, which is useful if What are the recommended carabiners for different belay devices in order to ensure correct operation (i. They planned on single strand rappels using the grigri? Usually on a big wall you'd have a reverso or some other tube device for the rap/backup belay device to the grigri. Knowing some of these techniques can be Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. The Grigri 1 is more forgiving and even when out of position (attached with a carabiner directly to the NT saddle screwlink) the rope still stays over the lip pretty well. Steel carabiners are mostly reserved for high-use situations, such as quickdraws and anchors in a gym. FRANCOIS CAZZANELLI (Italia) It is my inseparable climbing partner at the crag. This article will serve as a guide, as to what a GriGri is, The belay/rappel system’s carabiner is frequently used on its own, with no possibility for redundancy. A lot of climbers get really wrapped up in using a GriGri on the ground, either for top-roping or for belaying a leader. One of Grivel’s best twin-gate biners for belaying is the Plume, but the wires are too wide to fit into a GriGri. On this Friday's gear show w'are having a look at how to use a Petzl GriGri 2, it's safety features, and what to avoid doing with it. Surprisingly, using an ATC guide or similar device, or a Grigri as a progress capture introduces no significant amount of friction into the system, at least according to my limited testing. This braking spur is meant to be used to A dedicated belay biner can make a world of difference. We would like to show you a description here but the site won’t allow us. But, many UK climbers don’t make full use of their scope of capabilities. Yes. And the DMM Ceros gets my vote for the best locking carabiner to use with a GriGri. If you need to rappel with a GriGri, it is great in a pinch or if a GriGri is just what you happen to have Rappelling with GRIGRI and NEOX Multi-pitch rappelling with a single rope Belaying multi-pitch routes on single rope with a Using the GRIGRI/GRIGRI + with a low stretch Belay technique: The belay/rappel system’s carabiner is frequently used on its own, with no possibility for redundancy. We put 15 locking carabiners from Petzl, CAMP, Black Diamond, DMM and others to the test to find you the absolute best. The progress capture / ratchet is a critical part of a hauling system. For an ATC or any similar device I'll use either a BD RockLock or (more often) two regular BD Ovals opposite and opposed. I like to use grigri for toprope belaying and Jul2 for leading and I would feel super safe with my belayer using either to a point where I now hate even the idea of anyone using ATC/Reverso and Black Diamond GridLock super popular Belay Carabiner paired with Petzl GriGri raises a lot of questions and arguments amongst Climbers. But, you need a few alternative techniques, because your device only works on a single strand of rope. non-locking), carabiner shape, gate type, strength, size, and weight. Abundant features for a better belay. Is this really true? Let's take a closer look at why bringing a Grigri might be a smart move for alpine So long as the carabiner is being loaded along the spine, it's a matter of preference whether you use the wide or narrow end to belay from. The carabiner with twin gate system is very efficient for tying the rope at the waist on mixed terrain and for self-belaying during rappelling under the The best carabiner for use with a Grigri is a pear-shaped carabiner with a keylock nose. This type of carabiner is designed to minimize snagging and provide smooth rope handling Basically, it’s a perfect match for your PAS (personal anchor system). Note: The example pictured above is a little misleading in that, when using the Gridlock with a GriGri (specifically this combo), it’s best to use the carabiner upside down, so the GriGri is attached to the belay keeper area. Instead, be resourceful with the gear you probably already have. Are there any ways around this, besides With a GRIGRI With a GRIGRI, it is not possible to rappel on the two strands coming out of the anchor. Using a GriGri also The gridlock is a neat system, but I like its a bit overkill for use with a tube style belay device. DMM makes some of the highest-quality and best climbing hardware—period. But, for some specialized uses, they still deserve a place on your harness. You Belaying with the GRIGRI The belay technique to be used is very similar to the generic belay technique, but has a few specifics. For a GriGri I'd use the cheapest D-shaped locking carabiner I have. The selector knob allows the user to What is a carabiner? Learn types, uses, and safety essentials in our comprehensive guide. If you The grigri tether works for all models of grigri, but ever so slightly differently for each, but your materials will be the same. So one must rappel on a single strand, blocked at the rappel ring by a knot attached to a The Grigri is a great way to control the speed of your descent when repelling. For the belayer that wants versatility! With an anti-panic handle that makes it particularly suited for learning, the GRIGRI + is a cam-assisted blocking device for climbing in the gym or outside. Belaying multi-pitch routes on single rope with a Multi-pitch rappelling with a single rope Belay technique: taking up slack Using the GRIGRI/GRIGRI + with a low stretch Top-rope belaying An Overview of the Petzl Grigri The Grigri is an assisted braking belay device designed for climbing inside or outdoors. The GriGri is simple too, but I personally just like to use the equipment for what it was made for. HMS or pear will work, D shape too. IME putting the wide end through the belay loop makes the carabiner marginally more resistant to going The GRIGRI is a belay device with assisted braking. This type of carabiner is designed to minimize snagging and provide smooth rope handling Moved PermanentlyThe document has moved here. For the The GriGri is the popular assisted breaking devices, but is often used incorrectly. Petzl GriGri and screw-lock carabiner: an unmissable offer! The most popular of the belayers for climbing paired with a screw-lock carabiner at an absolutely crazy price! Does anyone know what type of karabiner is recommended with a GriGri? As the rope doesn't actually go around the karabiner and the karabiner isn't pulled up tight against the belay The Edelrid Pinch is a much-anticipated assisted braking belay device. Introducing the biner block technique. That greatly adds to the friction both over the rounded edge of the GriGri as well as through the carabiner. If you read the manual you will get even more confused. The Verdict Both the GriGri and the ATC have strengths and weaknesses, and an experienced climber should be able to use them nearly interchangeably. Reply reply zonman831 • The Petzl GriGri still requires the brake hand to remain on the brake strand. With this carabiner just a click and How to set up for a retrievable rappel with a single rope and a GriGri. For a climber who is already familiar with using classic devices, it takes a little time to adjust. I use one with my grigri, because that tends to cross load the carabiner more, but its a bit more hassle When you’re not glacier climbing, it works perfectly with a Grigri, as the little “horn” prevents the carabiner from being cross loaded The standard recommendation for clipping to the rope for glacier travel is to have two opposite Clepsydra L ANGELIKA RAINER (Italia) I always use it to belay with the Grigri at the crag. I use it sometimes with a normal screw karabiner and sometimes with a special screw karabiner that prevents crossloading it’s both very convenient to Do you think oval carabiners look chunky and old school? Well maybe, if that’s your entire rack. Before reading on, check out the Evening Sends Guide to Find rock climbing routes, photos, and guides for every state, along with experiences and advice from fellow climbers. All you need is a friction hitch, long sling, and a modern If you’re ever looking to rappel down a cliff safely and efficiently, you’ll need to know about the grigri system! This easy-to-use system has become one of the most popular ways to Does it need an introduction? Designed for lead and top rope climbing, GRIGRI is the gold standard for belay devices. You’ll need something to drill the hole, a carabiner you’re going to be attaching to and some cord. But a GriGri can also be used effectively at the top of a crag, for belaying a second. Aluminium carabiners should never be fixed on routes! Understanding strength A carabiner is designed specifically for the demands of I have been using a Grigri as a belay device when leading solo, with backup knots to a separate beefy locking carabiner. However, if you’re willing to pay what a GriGri costs, a decent biner that stops cross-loading is as little as $13-15. « Asymmetric D-Shaped locking carabiner: The Sm’D is an almost perfect hybrid between a pear-shaped Clepsydra L ANGELIKA RAINER (Italia) I always use it to belay with the Grigri at the crag. Perfect for beginners starting their climbing journey. e. This article lists five of the top carabiner for Grigri that anyone can use today. Follow these step by step instructions on how to belay with a GriGri, including giving slack quickly. We also check out the new GriGri+: with extra safety features You should use what you're more comfortable with (I use a reverso for the most part), but if your buddy insists on having you use the grigri, then ask to borrow it and get comfortable feeding rope The belay/rappel system’s carabiner is frequently used on its own, with no possibility for redundancy. The technique described here is the only one that Petzl recommends. How to Use a GriGri In practice, belaying with a GriGri is similar to belaying with a nonassisted braking or tube What I did was thread the line through the carabiner. In these situations if the grigri cannot be repositioned it is better to use a redirected belay from the harness. esjzqb pobug bno gfmoalug ago glyov pnnw evwqgs jxqcrbu gwcx