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Top rope auto belay accident reddit. That’s why bouldering is more approachable to beginners.
Top rope auto belay accident reddit. This was not an auto belay accident. Put another way, your brakes don't have My friend always tries to stick to auto belay routes that are next to regular top ropes so that he can hold the top rope on the way down. Hi - If I missed this in the FAQ I apologize but don't remember seeing anything specifically on this. You'd have to pull the triangle away and be standing on it (otherwise the rope would retract to the top) - and to me that implies they were climbing deliberately without a rope. Auto belay "TruBlue Speed" auto-belay fixed at the top of an indoor climbing route An auto belay (or autobelay) is a mechanical device for belaying in indoor climbing walls, in both training and competition climbing formats. Must have assumed magic would catch them?? I thought the same thing and I realised it was kinda silly, it's the same for bouldering no one will judge you if you're a beginner, just be aware how many auto belay there are because other people will also use the auto belay. i use the autobelays primarily for this purpose and it works great Absolutely. The belay point for a top rope can be either anchored to the groud or not (normally is) but for leading the belay point should not be anchored as this gives the climber a softer fall. Reasons for not liking auto belays. For a top-rope focused gym (especially if there are no auto-belays) it makes sense to have the gri-gris perma-attached to the rope, that way the belayer can't fuck up and load the gri-gri the wrong way. Top rope climbing is a beginner-friendly style of climbing where the rope runs from the climber's harness up to an anchor system at the top of the route and back down to the belayer on the ground. Roped climbing in any form takes more equipment- harness, rope, helmet, belay device and eventually QuickDraws and stuff to make anchors if you are going to sport or top rope outside. The 103 votes, 190 comments. which is the funniest/most Statistically speaking, the vast majority of auto-belay users leave our gyms unscathed. Here's what I'm thinking for a homemade auto belay system. I’m sure it takes some getting used to but I felt like the rope was pulling/holding me up some, so it wasn’t as good of a work out as bouldering. Basically the best belay device is the one you feel is like an extension of your own body, you should be comfortable using it without having to think about it. The number of auto belay accidents are increasing. Surprised to see anchor failure be the most common top rope cause of accidents, with belay failure way lower down. We have a decent amount of auto belay set up going up to 5. Since I'm by myself, I was wondering other than bouldering, where can I go that has a The Grigri is a more versatile device. I work at a gym and I believe our auto belays are rated for up to 300lbs. Lots of negative comments about auto belays. As with most auto-belay accidents, user failure is the major cause. I’ll only be there a week. At a deadly height. Like when I crash my car it isn't a failure to operate a motor vehicle, it's a car accident. It helps me a lot to make a practice fall 2 meters into the climb. Statistically almost all auto belay accidents are from people forgetting to clip in. IF I was to clip in with two carabiners for toproping it would be on the belay loop, not the rope tie in points. For a gym, especially top-rope, new climbers tying the wrong knot or not finishing it up might be an even bigger safety concern though. Especially from those who have already have had a chance to use them. 541 votes, 190 comments. The only downside is it is a little more "slippery" than true cam- auto-break devices. I'll tie the rope off at the floor. End of rope slipping out of belay device. If you’ve got an auto belay system then your already in a great spot. He still hates it and realizes he'd burn the shit out of his hands if the auto belay were to fail and he attempted to catch If you clip in with a carabiner, you should always use the belay loop, and never leg and waist loops. Bouldering injuries A belay device is essential for catching falls anytime you're climbing on a rope. If your belayer primarily topropes indoors, those are almost always heavy and slow/thick ropes. We have 90 minutes to climb as many routes as possible, and collect Yes this exactly. There was a bad (but not fatal) accident in my favorite top rope gym the other day and it's been announced that the gym will I also use Top Rope / Auto belay. In my groups I'm the one who sets anchors (I know knots and how to dress them). 4M subscribers in the climbing community. Most top rope accidents that we do see are lowering Top rope climbing is quite different from autobelay climbing, so it’s surprising they included that wording in the statement if it was a failure of the autobelay device itself, which would have been out of their control. From there I'll attach a progress capture device on the rope and run the top of the rope up through a pulley and attach to some garage door springs. Building an outdoor climbing wall. It’s the same weight as your guide atc plus two lockers, but I’m carrying those anyway because those are my rappel and rescue tools. I always click the carabiners as double check after attaching them regardless of the locking type. He couldn’t hear the other He was training on a hard route, fell off about 5m and the auto belay clip came straight off and pulled up to the top while he fell to the bottom. I was being certified to climb at a small gym with an auto belay and he was telling me the most common accident in climbing gyms is people forgetting to clip into the autobelay because there is no one to double check. He fell from the top, caught the auto belay rope, and then free fell the second half. This creates a continuous The rope doesn't move through the anchor at the top, it's just hanging there. These are from Guadalajara, Mexico Quick-draws : anillas jugs - cazuelas, cantos (I think Canto is used in Spain as well) mantle - mancle auto belay - yo-yo lead climb - puntear belay - asegurar rope, harness - cuerda, harnés route - ruta / linea one "try" (for a route/boulder problem) - "un pegue" boulder - bulder sport So i have been top roping outside since 2023 and usually go 1-3 times a month with my partner who is more advanced than me, however i've always been very scared to try moves higher up and i take a very long time reaching the top. Auto belay will definitely continue to improve your top rope climbing if you can't go with your partner so just go for it. And almost all of these injuries are less serious than injuries from climbing on top rope, lead, I have only gone bouldering and today I tried auto belay for the first time. Or they do multiple routes in a row, unclip for a short break and forget Hector Diffut, 26, fell 30 feet from the top of an indoor wall after forgetting to clip into the auto belay. A woman has died following an auto-belay accident at Ascent Studio Climbing & Fitness, in Fort Collins, Colorado, on Saturday, June 12. My gym has six, each with two routes (one in 5. It’s really smooth and Anyone have experience or resources on if auto belay is safe while pregnant with a full body harness? Compared to top rope I was thinking it has a bit more of a fall before the device starts to lowers you down. The home of Climbing on reddit. It was a failure to clip into a belay (auto or otherwise). Most auto belays are clipped at the bottom to a big triangle that is in your way to start the route. Are there any cheaper alternatives to an auto-belay which would let me practice climb when I'm by myself? Those things cost thousands. At least that way they might feel more confident knowing they have a top rope backup. I have used the ISC Rocker at work before, it is designed and approved as a self-tailing One time my best friend was stuck at the top because of her fear of the auto belay. When you're using a carabiner, whether that be to belay another, rappel, or clip into an auto-belay you don't have to worry about friction between the metal and your harness, so it is appropriate to clip into your belay loop; that's why it's there. Some prefer high friction ones, some prefer ones where it's easier to feed rope when you need it, there's always a trade off. Gostaríamos de exibir a descriçãoaqui, mas o site que você está não nos permite. The rope zipped through the belay device and she decked full force on to the slightly padded (maybe 4" thick) floor. Fort Collins Police Services spokesperson Brandon Barnes told The Coloradoan One of the main elements in the auto belay set-up that is different from regular top rope climbing, is the absence of a partner. Indoor top-rope auto-belay in Kyoto, Osaka, Kobe? Hi all I'll be visiting Kyoto, Osaka, and Kobe during the summer, and I'd like to visit a few indoor gyms to work off all the food I'll be eating. One of my climbing buddies belays with a grigri and I feel like the rope has a tendency to be more “sticky” when she’s trying to pull up slack? Our head instructor had a friend of hers die from a belay accident many years ago and she absolutely took belaying as serious as she could and made sure every student worker she trained knew how to belay effectively and safely but like how does that even happen You can look up reports about Auto belay accidents, it happens kind of regularly. Bizarre it’s not standard I tie in to the tie-in loops when leading or toproping. Why do so many people not like auto-belays in gyms? Personally find them super convenient for training. Overall no helmet was a significant portion of all climbing accidents, nearly as much as rap errors. Moving parts I can't see or inspect. I'll add/remove springs to match climber . I started splitting my time between top rope and bouldering at my gym. Microtrax on top with elastic cord to keep it elevated - clipped to belay loop to oval carabiner. The fact that you wrote all of this on Reddit and explained everything clearly means you are already intelligent and diligent enough to properly belay your kid on top rope in the gym. I use an ATC to belay on top rope. How is it possible to go up without having a rope attached to We send the auto-belay up and set up a rope in the same lane when setting auto-belay routes. I I don't like auto belays, but they are pretty well engineered so I treat them similar to other gear. Honestly, pretty much everything! In lead belaying you're paying out rope (giving slack) while in top rope you're always taking in slack. The data shows that these The climbing centre's instagram page reported 3 days ago that it was auto belay failure, and they've removed all auto belays and will never use them again in that centre. Also how does the shape of the carabiner affect things and which orientation should it have? I. I split my time evenly mainly because my daughter is on team, and wants to go to all 4 days of practice a week. I usually ask if they have a finishing knot requirement as I tie in. Usually if you say you need a lead test they skip the TR one) Typically consists of having each person load their belay device, tie their knot, and go over belay commands. You could either lower them slowly so they get a feel of the auto belay or just let go of your brake hands and let the auto belay take them so they feel the full motion of the auto belay. If you're worried about it maybe ask what the auto belays are rated for. The highest certified guy who is my instructor told me they have more accidents in the bouldering areas then they do with auto-belay and other "standard" climbing accidents combined. I'd be interested to see some numbers on auto belays versus bouldering accidents. 10 or higher), and it’s extremely efficient to run laps on the autobelays to build endurance. You are correct that it was not an autobelay device failure. When I climb all the way up (top rope) and it's time to let go, I realize that I am 15+ meters up and this is the first time that the rope, my knots and the belay are tested. Belaying is one of the most important skills to have in climbing. My belayer opened the break on a thin rope and the rope burned his hands, he just completely let go of everything; it locked and I was traumatized but it worked out. They are only required to do 2, but she loves it and I’m not going to discourage that. Although some people that only use a single rope like to use them for top rope, single rope lead belay, and single rope top belay, and also carry an ATC belay device with a prusik cord for a I’m wondering what peoples thoughts are about the new belay device from petzl. Slam a carabiner on the anchor, put the rope through it and pull, quick flip of the rope and your partner is on belay, another flip and they're on a clove. These accidents are so common - a woman fell in our gym as well just a couple of weeks ago due to failing to clip in (luckily only minor injuries), and I really struggle to understand it. And yes we are scared of falling. She slipped and felland kept falling. But which one is the best? Belay devices come in three different categories — tube-style, auto-blocking devices, and assisted braking I once stopped a guy that clipped into the top rope rather than the auto-belay, the route had both. Reply reply OhHiHowIzYou • This is generally not an issue for top rope, especially if your gym wraps the rope around the pipe at the top of the route, as most do. In the auto belay scenario you lack an extra set of instead, they've invested in a four-foot thick crash mat which they plan to rush out with should anyone get to the top and realise they're not on belay. I belay with a Jul and I’m surprised by the fact that more people don’t belay with them, as they feel much more like an ATC (the device I learned to belay with) and are simpler overall. When the climber reaches the top, or if they fall, the device I'm going to install a rope system for belaying. Seeing auto-belay sections closed is a sign of good safety practice. And don't hop on an autobelay if someone is already top-roping the immediately adjacent rope unless they are really adequately spaced apart. Luckily he walked away with no injuries. Top rope, lead, multi pitch, rope ascension, single-line raps; the device does a lot. Sounds like not only will I need a grigri but I might not be able to belay without your local certification? I can bring something from my home gym that says I took and passed a course but we don’t have the same cert system you have. Most dissatisfying thing about magnetron is the inaudible response of the gate when I try to click it. Found an auto belay system in your rock climbing gym but not sure how to use it? Need a climbing buddy to belay you but no one was available? Or maybe you are too shy to ask a climber in the gym for some help? Enter the auto belay, a My gym has several large bouldering areas. I've seen fall arrest devices for roofers etc. I went back to climbing a month after my injury, pre-surgery, and had a couple of ultra painful moments doing very innocuous toe and heel hooks on top rope, that I didn’t think would be an issue. I trust my rope and harness won't break, so I trust the auto belay to lower me slowly. But I know a couple, but they can vary from region to region. best top rope/auto belay climbing hi! i might be moving to pittsburgh for school soon and was wondering what gyms are the best for top rope climbing. You don’t have to worry about tying in, don’t have to trade catches with your belay partner, etc. He landed half on the crash pad. I know you're being flippant, but it's important to highlight that the accident happened while lowering. 12. Last night I was leading and was hanging when i looked over at another climber friend about to reach for the finishing move on a fifty foot wall. Not sure why. But it was an auto belay accident. I’ve seen outside almost-accidents like this esp if belayer isn't wearing belay gloves, is used to using a grigri, or the rope is new/super slick. it seems like there are a lot of great bouldering places but i can’t see myself regularly bouldering that often! I'm curious how it plays out. Is it possible to climb an auto belay wall by top roping or lead? In my experience, either the AB cord would get in the way or there wouldn't be any top anchor for top rope climbing, as the auto belay would be there. This is a climbing accident where the injured forgot to attach himself to a belay. We set and forerun on the rope and return the auto-belay to the bottom when the route is completely finished. The device enables a climber to ascend indoor routes on a top rope but without the need for a human belaying God damn it was so much fun. I also kept getting smacked in the face and chest with the carabiner (is that what it’s called?). I like lead better, but it’s easier to do the auto belay most of the time. , the Petzl attaché has a pear Curious if anyone knows of any decent top-rope gyms in Tokyo? I know bouldering gyms are a dime a dozen (Apparently B-Pump is the best of that lot?), but it's hard to find a place with any top ropes (let alone autobelayers). I don't wish to repeat his mistake. Running laps on it will not only build your endurance in a more enjoyable way than circuit boarding, but will also quickly improve your general movement and technique to support the other side of the equation. I (200 lbs male) have been saved by forcing my belayer (125lbs, female) to get backed up by a friend (pulled her off the ground, she let go, backup saved me by causing the atc to break). In this case, clipping into a pre-tied knot with a carabiner leave a lot less space for mistakes. Luckily no major injuries. I wasn’t a huge fan. With the 'newer' (quite old, still) models of auto belays, there's virtually zero maintenance required, even. Grigri top belay is common now and I consider it a luxury since it’s extra to carry. I’m also interested to see longer term how they’ll handle consistent use, I suspect the rolling feature will help spread out It is also very versatile - it can be turned into an ATC and used as anchor belay device; auto-break on rappel; and double ropes. Both of my children, who weigh at least 100lbs less than me, can successfully belay me on top rope. That’s why bouldering is more approachable to beginners. I felt a lot less secure in it which took me out of my comfort zone big time. IMO, this is best practice. Hector Diffut then fell to the ground and suffered serious leg injuries. I definitely have improved from the first time i top roped since now i can finish all the climbs i try that are within my level and sometimes i can finish a Top Rope vs Top Belay? Pros/cons? Safety, ease of use, setup, cleaning. Just wondering what everyone else’s Even if you are so experienced with climbing on an auto belay that these things don't bother you any more, surely the absence of that pulling sensation and the rope in your face is going to be markedly noticeable? My gym uses static rope for certain top rope routes. 1. Now I always double and triple check my knot. “We rarely have incidents happen with top roping, so compared to bouldering, auto belays, and lead climbing, it seems to be one of the safer forms of indoor climbing. That might be the case here. I got dropped about 15 feet on top rope with a GriGri, but before I decked it did activated. Most injuries that take place in indoor climbing gyms are a result of bouldering. Every gym I’ve climbed at in the US has required a belay test (for top rope and lead. I also don't waste time teaching people to belay on an ATC. Even though she held the rope more than a couple of fist lengths from the AFAIK (correction: the statement in this sentence is wrong, see aplubsi's relpy) there has never been a single auto belay accident caused by failure of the auto belay device. I like trilock Am'D for top rope masterpoint where I can't supervise it all the time. E. Thanks for any info! The innocent lapses in attention that lead to auto-belay accidents are also to blame for top-rope and lead climbers who forget to finish their tie-in knots—mistakes with similarly dire consequences. I'm moving away from top rope and going to try some outdoor sport/lead climb stuff. When the auto belay is my On September 3, a 73-year-old man was seriously injured at Makak Climbing Arena in Warsaw, Poland, falling 30 feet after his autobelay line broke. There are many devices out there designed for, approved and used within rescue and rope access industry for this exact thing, yet they are ignored. However, if the staff said there was an accident, it suggests they weren't closing the stations regularly enough. I tie my ascended to the belay loop when solo toproping. Bouldering remains the most dangerous form of rock climbing for most indoor rock climbing gyms. When getting lowered, the rope is being dragged through the anchor with your full bodyweight on it so it wears out the anchor faster. That said, it's so entirely a preference thing that it doesn't matter. 8 - 5. There's a world of difference in terms of how 'safe' one might feel on top rope depending on how the belayer handles the rope. Several gyms in the United States have removed their autobelays in We came to the decision to remove auto belays. I typically climb in a really dusty/dirty area and I’m curious about how people think a neox would handle that. A fall on autobelay sometimes incurs some unintentional swing, and you don't want to knock someone else off their route. Reply reply testlipidesmu92 • See a fair amount of anti auto-belay comments. Most of these are falls from the top of the wall due to failure to clip in, making them catastrophic. I avoid repelling and use runners to tether when belaying (TR). If you have any friends able to belay with consideration of your condition, I think that would definitely help a lot. No buddy check and people just forget to clip in. the backup if you are not familiar with it, is like a How Do Auto Belays Work? An automatic belay device (AKA auto belay) takes up slack as you climb, thereby negating the need for a belayer on the ground. Allen Sanderson wrote: The thread title is not correct. 9 range, one 5. Only things I Lead Belaying Mistakes Account for Climbing Accidents Most of the injuries in lead and top-rope climbing were due to belaying mistakes at 10 cases out of 23 lead/top rope climbing accidents logged. The elastic cord keeps the devices from interfering with each other and the set up works great. Also makes you clip in with two opposed carabiners instead of tie in and various other weirdness. Yes we have checked everything but then I have felt it and it is actually all right. Hey guys, I recently signed up for a top rope / auto belay carnival style comp. Any hidden gems?? Also, are memberships not a thing? A lot of places seem to be day passes only. I like to belay top rope with a GriGri - what is the best carabiner design for this setup? Is a Petzl Attaché screw-lock ok? I also have a Camp Orbit 2 auto lock. Appalachian single pitch w top access via hiking. I just realized today I have no idea what's best to use :P edit: I've only used a gri-gri as a belay device. but I don't know if Other than that, I'll just echo the advice to belay as tight as you can any time the climber is effectively on top rope, especially for up to 3 bolts or even 1/3 or 1/2 up the route. This is sometimes called a static vs dynamic belay point, top rope is A climber forgot to clip into an auto-belay, climbed to the top of the route and then sat back, thinking that he was clipped in. If you can belay on a Grigri, you can belay on an ATC. Tie it in an MMO or instantly lower someone if you need. I don't know the statistics, but I'd wager that lowering/rappelling accidents are more So that limits them, as they are not an all in one belay device. . I just learned why the auto belay was attached to a big piece of canvas that blocked the bottom of the climb. The person likely had not used one before. I would start at the bottom of the wall and just climb up a little and then let go. It is completely safe for catching falls, So I had a semi accident with my GF whem she belayed me on toprope and we took a controlled fall, nothing more than what you would expect on a lead climb. In trad nearly half of all When I belay heavier folks I actually prefer the ATC because the slight bit of rope slippage makes it a softer fall / softer takeoff (for me, the belayer). And unfortunately did not double check his partner, the auto belay. She was a foot or two above the last clip and was at the anchor after this final move. Ascension ascender facing away from me, clipped through top loop (capturing the rope) - also clipped to the belay loop with an oval carabiner. I just got reintroduced to the anxiety of heights though when I finally used the auto belay machine we have at my gym yesterday. opfmmjoselsecwvvflhpsrzvudhokxteuhfnvwkaobaaisulnlea